The Quilty Candy Basket

I had the great opportunity to work with a beautiful collection of fabrics by Jamie Alexander Arts called Enchanted Autumn.  I sewed a few projects with them like a pretty kisslock purse, and different sizes of fabric candy baskets. 

When I thought I was done sewing, I kept thinking how I could put all of the fabrics in one project…and the answer was: fussy cutting! So I jumped in the project! I cut several rectangles with the fabrics, until I had enough rectangles to form a basket.  

What is fussy cutting?

Fussy cutting is basically when you cut a fabric intentionally to feature a specific detail  or image of the fabric.  In my case I cut the witches and haunted houses intentionally, making sure I was putting them right in the middle of my rectangles.  This way of cutting will use more of a fabric yardage but the results can be really nice and fun! Like my new Enchanted Candy Basket!

I will be showing you here how to make one of these baskets yourself! If you would like to make one just like this one, the fabrics can be purchased at Hawthorne SupplyCo website under Enchanted Autumn.  This collection has two colorways. I used the purple version in cotton linen and it was perfect!  Check out the other colorway you might like even better! 

But you can also make this type of basket with any fabric you have, even if it is a fabric with an allover print and not single motifs, still you can sew a pretty basket for Fall decor using a pretty Fall print or also use a plain  fabric and do like a color block! 

You can also mix prints like an allover print and prints with single designs, like I did with my basket.  For example the print of the ghosts and diamonds are an allover print, the haunted houses and the witches have single motifs perfect for fussy cutting.  Mixing different prints, I think, gives your project a nice movement. 

Materials you need:

1. Fabric of your choice, could be an allover print, single motifs or solid color.  You can use scraps of fabric like cotton, linen cotton.  I used 4 different prints. 

2. Fabric for the lining like cotton, a fat quarter will work. 

3. Fusible fleece, if you can not find it, you can use quilting batting.

4. Thread.

5. Leather for handles or ribbon or fabric for handles.

6. Felt for the bottom or any other fabric would work. I like to use felt because it does not fray.

7. Bias tape. 

8. Sewing machine.

Extras: ruler, rotary cutter, scissors, cutting mat.

Cutting:

You will need to cut 14 rectangles out of your fashion fabric or main fabrics

Size: 3 and 9/16” tall by 2 and 13/16” wide or 7.2 cm x 9cm (this includes seam allowance of 1/4” or 6mm.)

The lining and fusible fleece I cut it after I had joined all the rectangles together into a bigger rectangle shape.

Cut a circumference out of felt: 5 and 7/16” or 13.8 cm (seam allowances are included)

For the straps if cutting out of leather, vinyl or ribbon: 6” long by 6/8” (the length includes seam allowance of 1/2” on each end. But this is a reference, you can cut your handles any size you would like or not add any handles. Or play and add your own twist like adding buttons to do the straps, or do grommets to thread a ribbon, this is the fun part about sewing, you get to play!

How to do a fussy cut:

I do not have a fussy cutting ruler so what I do is to cut a rectangle out of a piece of clear plastic.  If you do not have a clear sheet of plastic you can use paper and then cut the inside of the rectangle paper piece to sort of leave it as a picture frame.  Use this paper template or plastic to decide where you would like the motif to be centered.  Think about seam allowances too.  Or you can cut your template with the seam allowances included like I did with the piece of paper to cut the witch with red hair.

Use the template to trace around your rectangle.  In this case I used rectangles but fussy cutting can also be squares, triangles, etc. 

Sewing steps:

This basket has two rows of 7 triangles.  I first lined up each row on the table with the rectangles in the order I thought they looked best.  For example, I did not want to have two witches side by side or the houses side by side.  This is the fun part, to play where each rectangle will be, how you want your basket to look! Remember to have fun!

When I positioned all the way I wanted my two rows then I was ready to sew each rectangle, and each row. Grab your first row of rectangles and start stitching each rectangle on the sides, remembering to leave one side of the first and last rectangle free, meaning it will be one strip of 7 rectangles.   Repeat with the second row and now press the seams open.  At the end you will have two rows each of 7 triangles.

Next sew together the two rows as shown:  that is the top of the second row with the bottom of the first row, stitch them making sure each rectangle is aligning well.  But do not feel frustrated if it does not! Cutting your rectangles perfectly equal and sewing the same amount of seam allowance will help you achieve a good seam matching. 

My tip: if you do not want to mark the seam allowance on each rectangle, then cut your paper template with the seam allowance included and use your presser foot as your guide for the amount of seam allowance you added in the paper template.  Usually the presser foot guide is ¼”. 

When the top and bottom row are attached and the seams opened and ironed well, then I placed it on a piece of fusible fleece.  I cut the fleece around it to the size of my pieced rectangle.  Fuse the fusible fleece to the back of your pieced rectangle.  Place the side with the glue of the fusible fleece against the wrong side of your fabric and then press with the iron and leave the iron on the same place for about a minute, keep moving the iron around the fusible fleece until it is all fused.  I do not use the steam much, the heat alone will melt the glue of the fleece.  I also iron on the right side of the fabric at the end.  It is best to do a test on a piece of fabric if you have never used fusible fleece before.

When the fleece is fused then I run two topstitches over the middle seam along the two rows.  Here you could quilt even more, and add stitches around each rectangle or quilt the whole thing! Or do stitches by hand!

After the topstitch I placed my rectangle on a grid mat and using the ruler and the lines of the mat I even it up to make sure it was all straight and even. While sewing each rectangle piece things could have shifted a little. You can use a rotary cutter to cut any uneven places, this is my prefer way to cut but you can also use the ruler and mark with chalk the new lines then cut with scissors.

Next place the rectangle piece over the lining fabric and cut your lining using the rectangle as a guide BUT remember to leave the lining longer at the bottom line. This will be helpful later.
Next I sewed the side seams of my pieced rectangle and also stitched the seams in the lining.  You will have two tubes now. Then the straps can be added, use leather, vinyl or ribbon as handles or make your own with fabric or use any leftover strap webbing.  Find a good placement for the straps and determine how tall they will be. Mine are 2” tall.

To find the placement of the handles: I divide the tube in 4 parts, at the top and only in the fashion fabric, the points in the middle, between side seam and center front are the ones I use to place a pin there and from the pins I mark 3/4” to each side and there is where the handles will be placed. See pics below.

Next attach the lining at the top, placing the fabrics right sides together, if you choose to add straps they will be sandwiched in between the fabrics, at this point.  Run a stitch at top edge, use your presser foot as a guide or use 1/4” seam allowance, turn, iron and topstitch the top edge.  Now using your hands and pins, pin the lining to the fashion fabric (outer fabric) and run a stitch at the bottom circumference and cut any extra lining hanging there.  I then decided to serge it, I thought I would finish that bottom seam with a bias tape after the circle is sewn in but changed my mind and since the circumference is a felt piece, it will not fray. But you can finish the bottom seams in any way you would like, using bias tape is an option. If you do not have a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch to finish the edge.

Next attach the felt that is cut in a circle shape.  Turn your basket inside out. Place right sides of basket and of circle together, keep it in place with pins or sewing clips. Stitch by machine, cut down the seam allowance if needed. If you finish the bottom edge of the basket (eralier) with a serger or zigzag then you do not need to do anything else. Or finish this seam with a bias tape. Read below how to attach the circle.

Sewing a circle to another shape: This is not too easy but do not worry, just have fun! Pin the circle with sewing clips or pins, so you can see how the circle is fitting, you could baste it by hand so the pins or clips are out of the way. If one of the fabrics feel a bit bigger then I like to place my biggest piece down on the sewing machine, the feeddog will then help to ease the fabric in. I sew this basket with the rectangle piece down so I was looking at the felt piece. Choose which ever way you feel more comfortable sewing. And use your hands to go between the basket to help move the fabrics. Remember to keep the needle down in the fabrics every time you need to shift your project. This will ensure that the stitching will continue straight where it was.

Now your basket is almost done! All you need to do is turn your basket, IRON very well all over.  I like to use the iron a lot!

Now you can fill your Quilty Candy Basket with lots of candy and enjoy it!

  Thanks so much for reading this blog! I am so happy to share my sewing adventures with lots of people around the world!

HAPPY SEWING!!

Thanks! Gracias!

Isabel

I am running a sew along to make this cute fabric basket. You can find more information by signing in for my newsletter! Or click the button below!

Things I encounter in this project:

1. The lining could be slightly bigger at the bottom of the basket compared to the basket (outer fabric) Easy fix: after pining the lining to the basket to stitch at the bottom, see if the lining is a bit bigger and just take in seam of the lining.

2. The bottom piece or felt is a bit too big or too small. Easy fix: if your circle piece is too big, just like a 1/4” bigger then position this piece down in your sewing machine when you are going to sew. If your basket circumference is bigger then put this side down in your sewing machine. Another way to make sure the circumferences of the circle and basket will match is before cutting your circle, measure the circumference of your basket, turning your basket inside out, measure from the inner side and then match that to the circumference of the circle piece. If the difference is of 1/8” to 1/4” you can work with that, more or less than that the pieces will need to be adjusted. I have a pdf file with the circle piece but in the sewing process things can shift depending of the seam allowance you use, so I just advise you to double check the measurement of your basket circumference at the bottom before adding the bottom piece.